North-South Track (Part 2): Te Whare Okioki to Poupou Stream

I knew day two would be the biggest in my North-South mission - covering 30km in 10 hours (8 hours of actual tramping). You can tell which of us at the hut were doing the North-South Track - we were the ones out of bed by 7am. It was overcast with a refreshing morning dew - it was nice while it lasted. I had already started to sweat when I set off for Poupou Stream.

Tessa and Jordan joined me for breakfast - my double portion of porridge and extra strong coffee going down a treat. They were walking out via Te Tuhi Track but taking a detour to check out Mangamuka Hut. Tessa was nice enough to take my photo in front of Te Whare Okioki, and I returned the favour for the girls. We reconnected a week later when Tessa saw my post in the Kaimai Tracks and Huts Users group on Facebook. She confirmed that the track to Mangamuka was hard yakka alright.

When I was doing research for this mission, I was told to do my best to get to Poupou Stream on day two. Otherwise, day three would be massive. That was great advice because knowing now what the terrain to Motutapere Hut was like for my knees, that last push to the Poupou Stream campsite was worth it. The family of four I met the day before were also on their way to Poupou Stream. They were still packing up their tent when I left around 8:30am, but I saw them again a couple of hours later as they passed me uphill. Gosh, they set a cracking pace.

North-South Track (Part 1): SH29 to Te Whare Okioki

Tramping in the Kaimai Ranges is an interesting backcountry experience. On one hand you can be by yourself for hours, grunting up a spur on a narrow, rooty, hella muddy track. Then on the other hand, the sound of planes overhead reminds you that you’re not that far from people at all. It’s not to say it commands less respect, because here, you have to earn those stunning views.

As my last adventure for 2021, I did a four day solo mission to cover half of the North-South Track. The plan was to start at SH29, then stay at Te Whare Okioki (formerly Ngamuwahine Shelter), Poupou Stream and Motutapere Hut. I walked out via Tuahu Track and got picked up at Hot Springs Road in Katikati. Te Whare Okioki means ‘the resting place’, and when you get there, you’ll see why. I’ve learned that my mental focus and fitness is good for around four days during solo missions. Taking my average level of fitness into account, this was a good challenge but still allowed me to enjoy it.

The full North-South Track is 82km and maintained by the Kaimai Ridgeway Trust. I found lots of great info on their website with possible itineraries (approx. 5-7 days of decent tramping days). There are huts and campsites along the way. If you’re on Facebook, make sure to join the Kaimai Tracks and Huts Users group. Regulars and track volunteers are always happy to pass on current track info and tips.

Rapurapu Kauri Track in the Kaimai-Mamaku Forest

I’ve been ticking off a lot of the day hikes in the Kaimai-Mamaku Forest and the Rapurapu Kauri Track was the perfect kind of chill hike to get me out of my recent funk. Normally, I like to hike at least a couple of hours for each hour I’m in the car - I guess this one was the exception. I figured I could make a day of it and grab a late lunch on the way home.

The start of the track is along SH 29, it’s not signposted, but easy enough to find if you Google ‘Rapurapu Kauri Track’ like I did. Even though the turn off to the car park isn’t signposted, there is an official DoC (Department of Conservation) sign on the fence at the start of the trail. You’ll walk through a grass track and a wide gauntlet of gorse for about 10 minutes before you reach the bush edge.

I had recently joined the Kaimai Track and Hut Users Facebook group page before going on this hike, and if you use Facebook, I highly recommend it. We had had a storm a few days before and someone posted photos of large windfalls from that morning. It was still passable, but it’s always good to know what you’re up against. The same was said about the water levels - it was high enough that you were definitely going to get wet feet, but not enough to make stream crossings dangerous.

Day tramp from Ōtanewainuku to Otawa Trig Track

You know, some day missions don’t always go as planned. Mayer turned up with a slight hangover from his work party the night before and I totally missed the car park on Quarry Road in Te Puke, making us start much later than planned. There were already a few missed calls on my phone before I could do a u-turn along the narrow gravel road and make my way back to the Otawa Scenic Reserve.

It was around midday by the time we pulled up to the carpark at Ōtanewainuku in Ōropi - a place I didn’t even know existed until a year ago. Thank you Tinder haha. My legs were full of energy as we powered through to Whataroa Falls (it was the easiest hour of the tramp) - the track is well maintained and easy to follow. I also recommend checking out the 400-year-old Rimu along the short Rimu Track loop.

Day mission to Te Waiti Hut in the Urutawa Conservation Area

I have a rule when it comes to choosing my weekend adventures. For every hour that I’m in the car, I want at least a couple of hours tramping. Which usually means that day missions start early. Te Waiti Hut was just that - about 1.5 hours from Whakatāne. We stopped for takeaway coffees and something for lunch in Ōpōtiki, and being a long weekend, of course it was packed. Diesel was such a good boy, waiting patiently for us in the car.

It was around mid-morning before we finally made our way along the narrow, gravel road on our way to Bushaven. “Is your Rav a 4WD?” Katri asked as we drove across a shallow ford with a small stream running through it. I laughed. It wasn’t, but Betty (my trusty adventure Rav) and I have been on plenty of gravel roads together and survived. Te Waiti Road will definitely test your reversing skills - we count ourselves lucky because there was no one else on the road that day.

Savlon and Tokenui Huts via Tutaetoko Stream to Manganuku campsite

“Ronna, if you had balls, they’ll definitely get wet today.” My friend Mayer likes to keep it real. We’ve done a few day hikes together now, and just when I think I’ve cracked his sense of humour, he’ll throw something left field that keeps me wondering what actually makes our friendship tick. Being the introvert that I am, going into the backcountry definitely appealed to me. Less people, more chances of having a hut to yourself - just add cheese and that’s my dream getaway. Being my first time, we had originally planned on an overnighter to Savlon Hut, but Mayer convinced me to take the Monday off work so we could check out Tokenui Hut too. As gruelling as our three days were on my body (after a week my legs still looked like I got my ass beaten by a cat), I would do it again in a heartbeat. Just don’t tell Mayer that.

A ute was already parked up as I pulled into the Tutaetoko Road end where Mayer and I would start our walk. My friend Kat was driving my Rav back to Whakatāne and brought along her dog Diesel to keep her company for the drive home - he was so good in the car, I think he’s going to be a great adventure dog for sure. We managed to head off late morning, but being daylight savings, there was plenty of daylight left so I didn’t mind.