North-South Track (Part 1): SH29 to Te Whare Okioki
How to get to the start of the track
The southern entrance to the North-South track is also the start of the Kaimai Summit loop track. It’s on the Waikato side of SH29 and just down the road from the Rapurapu Kauri track. There isn’t an official car park, but there is a decent sized gravel clearing. Permits are required for firearms and dogs.
Tramping in the Kaimai Ranges is an interesting backcountry experience. On one hand you can be by yourself for hours, grunting up a spur on a narrow, rooty, hella muddy track. Then on the other hand, the sound of planes overhead reminds you that you’re not that far from people at all. It’s not to say it commands less respect, because here, you have to earn those stunning views.
As my last adventure for 2021, I did a four day solo mission to cover half of the North-South Track. The plan was to start at SH29, then stay at Te Whare Okioki (formerly Ngamuwahine Shelter), Poupou Stream and Motutapere Hut. I walked out via Tuahu Track and got picked up at Hot Springs Road in Katikati. Te Whare Okioki means ‘the resting place’, and when you get there, you’ll see why. I’ve learned that my mental focus and fitness is good for around four days during solo missions. Taking my average level of fitness into account, this was a good challenge but still allowed me to enjoy it.
The full North-South Track is 82km and maintained by the Kaimai Ridgeway Trust. I found lots of great info on their website with possible itineraries (approx. 5-7 days of decent tramping days). There are huts and campsites along the way. If you’re on Facebook, make sure to join the Kaimai Tracks and Huts Users group. Regulars and track volunteers are always happy to pass on current track info and tips.
SH29 to Te Whare Okioki (approx. 7 hours with lunch)
My parents were nice enough to drop me off and pick me up four days later (thanks mum and dad). I started my walk from the Southern Kaimai because Te Whare Okioki is a serviced hut (must be booked and prepaid) and the dates didn’t match up otherwise. There were only two others at the hut when I was there, but I did have great company from campers I met that night.
The trailhead is the Kaimai Summit Loop track - there isn’t an official car park, but there’s a decent-sized gravel clearing just off the highway. If you’re coming from Tauranga, the gravel clearing is on the right and it’s best to find a safe turnaround point instead of trying to cross traffic. At the car park, there’s a small track to the right where you’ll find a small stream and official track signage.
Here’s what I’ve learned in the Kaimai Ranges - walk long enough and you will eventually find yourself grunting up a steep ridge. On this mission, as soon as I crossed that stream, it was straight up. It was only 10.30am, yet the humidity already made me sweat so much that even my eyeballs stung a bit. After that half an hour of lung-busting, the track kept going up but eventually eased off. Soon my heartbeat settled into a more manageable rhythm.
After an hour, I could hear voices coming up behind me, which turned out to be a small hunting group. A couple of adults and three teenagers looking to hunt deer. I decided to let them pass so I could continue at my slower pace. We met up again at the Henderson Tramline track junction and eventually at Hurunui Hut, where I stopped for a quick lunch.
Stopped for lunch at Hurunui Hut. The hunting group left their packs at the hut to go for swim at a nearby stream.
One of my goals for this solo mission was to closely monitor my water intake. I have always been prone to cramps and this time really wanted to get an idea just how much my body needed, especially on big days (over 20km). I find that I’m good for 10km, but will decline rapidly after that if I don’t drink enough. I had a 1.5L water bladder and kept a 600ml bottle for stream top-ups. Each time I topped up, I also made sure to add the electrolyte concentrate. This was my first multi-day mission where I didn’t cramp up at all, so I’m pretty stoked with that.
Lunch at Hurunui Hut was Red Leicester cheese, spicy salami and crackers. As much as I had every intention of polishing up my rations over the four days (and making my pack lighter too), my body didn’t really appreciate my gourmet efforts. I much preferred to graze on nuts, dried cranberries and the Manuka Performance sports gels (made of honey) I brought with me.
The terrain is relatively flat and with the good weather, I walked at a cruisy pace and I got to really enjoy my time in the bush. I did have to backtrack a few times at some overgrown sections (must have been daydreaming) - to be fair, once I slowed down and paid attention, it was easy to find the track again.
It was late afternoon when I came across a couple on their way to Hurunui Hut. They were on their last couple of days walking the North-South track. They told me about a nice swimming spot (more like a sit and soak), not far from the Ngamuka Hut track junction. It was a little gem alright - the cold water washed away the sticky sweat from my face, neck and arms. I did want to sit in the water awhile, but also didn’t fancy getting chafing from walking in wet shorts.
There were a handful of tents already set up when I got to Te Whare Okioki. That’s where I met Tessa and Jordan - a couple of hilarious trampers from Auckland. They had walked in from the Tuhi Road track that afternoon and would walk out the same way. I learned later that there were only three sleeping in the hut that night, while the rest were camping. A family that had passed me earlier in the day were playing cards on one of the picnic tables, they too were camping for the night.
After dinner, I ended up playing cards with Tessa, Jordan and another of my hut buddies (his wife was having a nap). I can’t remember his name, but I do remember that he was a Science teacher from the Hawkes Bay. Let’s just call him Nick. “I haven’t played this game for about six months to 15 years ago,” he replied when Jordan asked him if he knew how to play a card game we were about to play. Tessa, Jordan and I looked at each other then burst out laughing.
I didn’t stay up too late because I knew that the walk to Poupou Stream would be the biggest on this mission. I actually did my math wrong thinking it would be just over 20km, when in fact it was closer to 30km… (Check out Part 2 for Te Whare Okioki to Poupou Stream.)
Te Whare Okioki Hut on the morning of day two.
fivefootronna is Ronna Grace Funtelar - a thirtyish adventurer, graphic designer and writer. A woman with a curious mind who lives for hiking mountains, outdoor adventures and eating pizza. She has a unique brand of optimism that is a combination of her great enthusiasm for life and cups of coffee during the day.