Ngatuhoa Lodge: Adventures down a gravel road

I had planned an overnight camp at Ngatuhoa Lodge to explore three waterfalls that weekend: Te Rere i Oturu, Ngatuhoa and Tauwharawhara. Betty, my trusty RAV4, have been down some gnarly gravel roads in our time together. The drive into the lodge had some hairy blind corners, but as far as gravel and forestry roads go, it wasn’t that bad. Bumpy enough that your passengers are best to save sipping a cold one for later, but also in the words of a 1-star Google review, “...the drive into the camp was horrendous so don't take a new car here!”

Ngatuhoa Lodge is on public conservation land in the Kaimai Mamaku Forest, but access is through private forestry roads. Don’t just rock up, there’s a large locked gate about 20-30 minutes drive from the lodge. There’s little to no mobile reception in the area, so make sure to organise key access before you go. To make your booking and organise key access, go to ngatuhoa.org.nz | Google maps: Ngatuhoa Lodge

This was a solo adventure, a pre-Christmas hike chasing waterfalls and to get a baseline for my current lack of hike-fitness. It was also the first day of New Zealand’s summer, but the constant drizzle and a few heavy downpours reminded me more of the rainy season in a tropical country. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to see Te Rere i Oturu this time round as the rain would have made river levels rise and there were several river crossings on the track. You can also access the falls by driving 5km from the lodge down a gravel road.

Three day hike in the Waioeka: Moanui - Koranga Forks - Tawa Loop

When you’re a townie like me, hiking in the backcountry always means driving a few hours. Usually down a gravel road with potholes, and the odd tree blocking the road. Moanui Road in the Waioeka Conservation Area had two out of three, luckily for me, it wasn’t a fallen tree because I don’t own a chainsaw yet. The carpark and start of the Moanui-Koranga Forks-Tawa Loop is about a 40 minute drive from Waioeka Gorge Road and then Te Wera Road turn-off. You can get through the gravel road on a 2WD drive, but the potholes can be pretty unforgiving to a low-riding bumper.

I started my walk around 11am - fortunately it was overcast with a lovely breeze so I didn’t have to suffer the midday heat. The Moanui Track starts off on farmland as it follows the Koranga River. The bush sections are well graded and marked (orange triangles), while the open farmland had large, yellow wooden posts. Some sections narrowed down to double my boot width with steep drop offs, but as long as you watch your step, it’s fairly easy to get through. These are working farms, so keep your distance from livestock and leave gates as you find them (or follow instructions on signs).

A rainy day hike on the Tarawera Trail

Grey skies greeted us at Te Wairoa carpark. I knew we were in for a wet afternoon, but I was hopeful we would be closer to Hot Water Beach by then, and even planned a quick soak before catching the water taxi at 3pm. I’ve walked the Tarawera Trail twice before (from both directions) and was pretty confident with my five hour walking estimate. Unfortunately, there have been a couple of major storms since I last hiked the Tarawera Trail, and the large windfalls and overgrown sections did slow us down. I was still pretty close - it took us 5.5 hours and made it to Hot Water Beach with just three minutes to spare!

Even though it’s called the ‘Tarawera Trail’, I reckon it’s still a well marked track and beginners shouldn’t have too much trouble. When you leave the carpark, the trail will begin to narrow as it climbs up towards Te Wairoa viewpoint. There was a lot of grass and ferns growing over the track, which slowed me down a lot. Being just five feet fall, we had a good laugh as I bush bashed my way through, and the tall fella cruised through it. Is it even hiking in the backcountry without a bit of bush bashing?

Chasing waterfalls: Kaiate (Te Rerekawau) Falls and Ōmanawa Falls

Before 2023, the track down to Ōmanawa Falls had been closed to the public for many years. If you Googled ‘Ōmanawa Falls’, you would have found countless articles of people using sketchy trails, ropes and historic ladders just to get down to the waterfall. Millions of dollars have been spent on abandoned plans trying to make the old track safer and reopened. The new walking track officially reopened to the public in December 2023, with three viewing platforms and a gazillion stairs (just kidding, it’s only around 1,400 return). There’s no public access to the bottom of the waterfall and swimming isn’t allowed - it’s considered tapu/sacred by mana whenua, Ngāti Hangarau.

The walking track is 2km return, and 1.5 hours gave us plenty of time to enjoy the views and take photos. From the main car park, we walked along a gravel road to the Titoki Junction where we decided to head up the stairs instead of going to the first lookout (Te Tae Ōmanawa). We saved that one for last.

A stroll along the Lake Ōkāreka Walkway

Our walk started from the boat ramp carpark because it has flushing toilets - there are no toilets at the reserve carpark. From the toilets, we walked roadside for 15 mins until we reached the lakeside reserve. The track is wheelchair accessible until Silver Beach, as beyond here the track goes up stairs and along a short bush track to the outlet, where the track ends.

About five minutes from the carpark, the track opens up to the lakeside wetlands. There’s a purpose-built boardwalk so you can do enjoy the birdlife without damaging the wetland and plant life. We checked out the bird hide on the way back, but with the birds being so chilled anyway, it was easier to do our bird watching (and photography) from the boardwalk instead. We spot some small fish swimming in the wetland streams, but being so dry, the streams were mostly a trickle.

Pudding Basin Falls and Wednesday Falls

Walk in from the Ngamarama Track at the end of Whakamarama Road - look out for the DoC track sign to the right of the main car park. It's tucked away in the corner of the grassy area with the wooden picnic tables. There’s another entrance about 50m away, but there’s only room for one car there, so you're better off walking in from the main car park (it’s on your right as you are driving towards the car park). I actually walked in from the tiny car park as I didn’t see the sign the first time - this part of the track was narrow with long grass and gorse, but it eventually meets up with the main track after five minutes.

The forest section is a lovely, gentle downhill on a well-formed track. I reckon this was the last time my socks were dry. Here's the thing about hiking in the Kaimai-Mamaku Forest - you don't have to love walking in mud, you just have to be ok with it. Tall gaiters also come in handy in the tall grass on the way down to the waterfalls and the stream crossings. You will come across remnants of the old tramlines - even though the track itself isn’t too challenging as a hike, think about trying to transport giant milled Kauri back in the day. A lot of water pools between the tramlines, keeping the track wet and muddy for most of the year.