North-South Track (Part 1): SH29 to Te Whare Okioki

Tramping in the Kaimai Ranges is an interesting backcountry experience. On one hand you can be by yourself for hours, grunting up a spur on a narrow, rooty, hella muddy track. Then on the other hand, the sound of planes overhead reminds you that you’re not that far from people at all. It’s not to say it commands less respect, because here, you have to earn those stunning views.

As my last adventure for 2021, I did a four day solo mission to cover half of the North-South Track. The plan was to start at SH29, then stay at Te Whare Okioki (formerly Ngamuwahine Shelter), Poupou Stream and Motutapere Hut. I walked out via Tuahu Track and got picked up at Hot Springs Road in Katikati. Te Whare Okioki means ‘the resting place’, and when you get there, you’ll see why. I’ve learned that my mental focus and fitness is good for around four days during solo missions. Taking my average level of fitness into account, this was a good challenge but still allowed me to enjoy it.

The full North-South Track is 82km and maintained by the Kaimai Ridgeway Trust. I found lots of great info on their website with possible itineraries (approx. 5-7 days of decent tramping days). There are huts and campsites along the way. If you’re on Facebook, make sure to join the Kaimai Tracks and Huts Users group. Regulars and track volunteers are always happy to pass on current track info and tips.

Rapurapu Kauri Track in the Kaimai-Mamaku Forest

I’ve been ticking off a lot of the day hikes in the Kaimai-Mamaku Forest and the Rapurapu Kauri Track was the perfect kind of chill hike to get me out of my recent funk. Normally, I like to hike at least a couple of hours for each hour I’m in the car - I guess this one was the exception. I figured I could make a day of it and grab a late lunch on the way home.

The start of the track is along SH 29, it’s not signposted, but easy enough to find if you Google ‘Rapurapu Kauri Track’ like I did. Even though the turn off to the car park isn’t signposted, there is an official DoC (Department of Conservation) sign on the fence at the start of the trail. You’ll walk through a grass track and a wide gauntlet of gorse for about 10 minutes before you reach the bush edge.

I had recently joined the Kaimai Track and Hut Users Facebook group page before going on this hike, and if you use Facebook, I highly recommend it. We had had a storm a few days before and someone posted photos of large windfalls from that morning. It was still passable, but it’s always good to know what you’re up against. The same was said about the water levels - it was high enough that you were definitely going to get wet feet, but not enough to make stream crossings dangerous.

Day tramp from Ōtanewainuku to Otawa Trig Track

You know, some day missions don’t always go as planned. Mayer turned up with a slight hangover from his work party the night before and I totally missed the car park on Quarry Road in Te Puke, making us start much later than planned. There were already a few missed calls on my phone before I could do a u-turn along the narrow gravel road and make my way back to the Otawa Scenic Reserve.

It was around midday by the time we pulled up to the carpark at Ōtanewainuku in Ōropi - a place I didn’t even know existed until a year ago. Thank you Tinder haha. My legs were full of energy as we powered through to Whataroa Falls (it was the easiest hour of the tramp) - the track is well maintained and easy to follow. I also recommend checking out the 400-year-old Rimu along the short Rimu Track loop.

Savlon and Tokenui Huts via Tutaetoko Stream to Manganuku campsite

“Ronna, if you had balls, they’ll definitely get wet today.” My friend Mayer likes to keep it real. We’ve done a few day hikes together now, and just when I think I’ve cracked his sense of humour, he’ll throw something left field that keeps me wondering what actually makes our friendship tick. Being the introvert that I am, going into the backcountry definitely appealed to me. Less people, more chances of having a hut to yourself - just add cheese and that’s my dream getaway. Being my first time, we had originally planned on an overnighter to Savlon Hut, but Mayer convinced me to take the Monday off work so we could check out Tokenui Hut too. As gruelling as our three days were on my body (after a week my legs still looked like I got my ass beaten by a cat), I would do it again in a heartbeat. Just don’t tell Mayer that.

A ute was already parked up as I pulled into the Tutaetoko Road end where Mayer and I would start our walk. My friend Kat was driving my Rav back to Whakatāne and brought along her dog Diesel to keep her company for the drive home - he was so good in the car, I think he’s going to be a great adventure dog for sure. We managed to head off late morning, but being daylight savings, there was plenty of daylight left so I didn’t mind.

Bay of Plenty: Aongatete Long Loop Track

Aongatete has been popping up on my social media for awhile now, and I didn’t realise how often I had driven past on my way to do other tracks in the Kaimai-Mamaku forest. It’s a small, rural community between Omokoroa and Katikati, just an hour and a half from Whakatāne. There are three track options: The short or long loop, as well as a short 15-minute nature trail (this links up to the short loop). There’s even a swimming hole half an hour from the car park, but I ran out of time to check it out.

The car park was close to full by the time I arrived mid-morning, though there was plenty of room to park along the side of the road too so I didn’t mind. I saw a couple of small groups already heading up the track as I stopped to use the toilet - I ended up passing a couple with three young children not far into the track. One of the boys, who looked about six years old, started walking behind me as he got ahead of his family. After about ten minutes I could hear his dad calling out to him, so I made sure he turned around before I passed the track junction.

Kaimai Mamaku Forest: Henderson Tramline Loop

We were greeted by a sun shower as we pulled into the car park to the Henderson Tramline Loop. There was only one car before us, and I caught a glimpse of the trampers as they disappeared around the corner along Old Kaimai Road. In hindsight, it made sense to walk the road section first - it was the most exposed part and rain was expected later in the afternoon. The track is fairly boggy and crosses a couple of large tributaries of the Rataroa Stream (there are no bridges), so bring your gaiters and prepare to get wet feet.

The track starts at the western branch of the Henderson Tramline, with the first section linking up to the North-South Track. I had seen a great photo of another tramper sitting on some boulders in a stream the night before, and I must admit that I got a bit obsessed looking for the spot. I did find it in the end, but I was too wobbly (think a newborn lamb) during the stream crossings so I didn’t get that photo after all. As the weather wasn’t looking too good for later that afternoon, we decided to bypass the waterfall and swimming hole about 15 minutes from the car park. I will save that for the warmer months.