“Leave it! No! Leave it!” I thought I was alone on the track when her voice boomed through the birds and the light breeze. A few minutes later, I saw a woman walking towards me carrying a dead possum in her left hand, with a dog on her right. The dog seemed proud of his find, and somewhat annoyed that the woman wouldn't let him enjoy it. “I’m trying to find a tree high enough to hang it on so he can’t get to it next time.” We both laughed. She must have been a local living nearby, there weren’t any other cars parked up when I got there.

I was back in the Ikawhenua Ranges in Galataea - I had walked up Mt Tawhiuau a few times, but had never the Galatea Foothills Track. It was a good morning for it, almost-spring weather meant a couple of layers but rain wasn’t on the radar that day. The Kahikatea canopy stood tall, but not thick enough that sunshine couldn’t get through to the forest floor.

Women’s weekend overnighter at Daly's Clearing Hut

Saturday night was pretty special - it was warm enough to spend a couple of hours looking up at the Milky Way, telling bush stories and laughing at life. We even spotted a few shooting stars that I later learned were the tail end of a meteor shower. There is a fire pit in front of the hut, but with all the recent rain there just wasn’t any dry wood around. One by one people started going to bed, and I seriously thought about sleeping out on the deck. But I knew rain was coming too, and I was glad to be warm in bed when I heard it dancing on the roof at 5am.

This was the biggest group I've hiked with ever - four newbies and my regular adventure buddies, Katri and Tia. I organised a beginner’s overnighter for the weekend - an idea that came from some followers on Facebook who I already knew through different circles. Whakatāne is a small town with two degrees of separation after all. I have hiked most of the Kaimai-Mamaku Forest before, and Daly's Clearing Hut is definitely the most accessible for beginners. The quickest route is less than two hours from the car park.

Our group met at the Franklin Road car park around midday. The plan was to walk alongside the Waitawheta River, the same track I’ve taken to Waitawheta Hut previously. It's lovely flat terrain that's really more of a walking track. You can see remnants of the historical tramway, which were used to transport the giant Kauri they were milling. We walked for about an hour through farmland and bush until we reached the Daly’s Clearing Track junction.

Rogers Hut via Moerangi Track in Te Whirinaki Pua-a-Tāne

I stopped by at Volk & Co to grab a takeaway soy mocha for the drive to Te Waiti. Early mornings usually meant fog on the roads, and I had plenty on the way to Murupara. There was some lingering fog as I hit the gravel section on SH38, but the morning sun was actually more of a hazard, especially on the corners. I felt a sigh of relief as I turned into Okahu Road.

The 35km Moerangi Track is shared use for MTB and trampers. For MTB, the ride starts at Okahu Road and ends at River Road. Trampers can walk the track in either direction. I walked in/out to Moerangi Hut from River Road last year, and geez that was a big hill! The great thing about this section of Moerangi Track is that it’s mostly cleared of roots and runs alongside the river. It was incredibly peaceful walking on my own.

Somewhere before I reached Whangatawhia (Skips Creek) Hut, I came across the only people I met on the track that day. It was a group of five that had stayed at Rogers Hut the night before. One of the men in the group stopped for a chat, asking if I was walking in on my own. I sure was! They had met four women on their way to Moerangi Hut earlier, but being a Sunday, there was a high chance I could have the hut to myself. Lucky me.

Day hike to Mangamuka Hut on Te Tuhi Track

Mangamuka Hut can be accessed from SH 29 along the North-South track, or via Te Tuhi track, starting at Te Tuhi Road car park. The track is on the Te Aroha side of the Kaimai-Mamaku Forest, and takes about 1.5 hours drive from Whakatāne. From SH 24, turn-off into Old Te Aroha Road until you get to Te Tuhi Road. It’s a beautiful drive surrounded by farmland. The car park is at the end of the road (there are no toilets). The trailhead is at the bush edge, about 30-40 mins walk along private farmland. Walk past the gate and up the gravel road - there’s an official Depart of Conservation (DoC) track sign about 15 mins up the road. Follow the orange markers to the bush edge.

I don’t mind early starts, and the Sunday morning drive to Te Tuhi Road from Whakatāne was lovely. I missed the turn-off to Old Te Aroha Road the first time, but not far enough down the road that I couldn’t turn around. There was plenty of morning fog on the surrounding farmland, but nothing on the road. There was only one car when I got to the car park. I met the couple a few hours later as they were heading back.

Egmont National Park: Around the Mountain Circuit (well, almost) - Part 2

As you can tell from the title, I ‘almost’ made it around the mountain. Day four was massive, bloody hell it was 14 hours! The reality is, even though we only covered about 10km, the elevation gain was more than what my body could handle. We’re talking 1,300m from Waiaua Gorge Hut to Syme Hut. So yeah, here’s a run down of the day.

Mark and I left the Waiaua Gorge Hut by 7am - there was enough light to start walking the bush track to the Brames Falls junction. The group of eight were heading to Kopuni Lodge, which is a private lodge downhill from the Fantham’s Peak junction. It was just as well as there wouldn’t have been any room at Syme Hut.

The group of four ladies we met at the hut also told us to keep an eye out for wasps. “You’ll know they’re there when they find you.” She wasn’t wrong. We were climbing a typical uphill scramble, the kind that was steep enough that I might as well have been climbing a ladder. I felt a sharp pain on the top of my head, and I’m pretty sure the F-bomb came out of my mouth a few times. I never climbed so fast in my life! Mark was right up behind me and once we got onto a flat section, we bolted. That was the first time I’ve been stung when out tramping.

Upper Whirinaki Hut in Te Whirinaki Pua-a-Tāne

It was slow going along the gravel road in Tia’s people mover - in hindsight it was probably more suited to Betty, my RAV4. Then again, there were four of us, a dog, and our packs, Betty would have been a tight squeeze. There were clunking noises as the stones were hitting something below, which kept our speed to about 30km for the most part. I was surprised at how well the road to the car park was signposted - I suppose most people who used this road were either in forestry or heading into the Whirinaki Forest.

I guess you could call this a ‘girls’ weekend tramp, though partners were invited, they didn’t end up coming in the end. Tia, Katri, Jasmine and I planned an overnighter to the Upper Whirinaki Hut, with Diesel, Katri’s dog, joining us on this adventure too.

When we finally reached the car park, we decided to have lunch before starting the tramp. It was only a couple of hours to the hut via the ridgeline track. Besides, Tia and I had been talking about eating lunch for the last hour. She had Havarti cheese and crackers, and I was looking forward to my breakfast bap. There were already a couple of cars parked up when we arrived, which made us wonder if we would end up using the tents after all.