Here's why Mount Tauhara is definitely worth the climb

Mount Tauhara is a 65,000 year old dormant lava dome volcano, the gentle giant that stands as gatekeeper to Lake Taupō. The 2.5km track to the summit (1,088m/3,570ft) is popular with locals and visitors alike. At the top, the tall fella and I were treated to panoramic views of the district, and even as far as the peaks of Tongariro National Park.

After a weekend of foodie indulgence for our anniversary, a walk up Mount Tauhara was a must-do before heading home to Whakatāne. After downing coffees and bacon butties at the Sunday market (Aaron was stoked that the butties came with HP sauce), we drove the 10 minutes out of Taupō to the Mount Tauhara carpark. The car park is at the end of Mountain Road, just before a gated working farm.

Tarawera Falls and Cascade Falls

I still remember the first time we drove down that gravel road from Kawerau to Tarawera Falls. It was a family trip (I was still in high school) and I sat in the back, napping most of the way. Each time I woke up, all I could see was the dust rising towards the blue skies. It felt like forever! As an adult, it usually only takes us 30-40 mins from Kawerau. Each time I've taken friends there, they always wonder how something as magnificent could remain so relatively unknown.

Tarawera Falls is accessed via a forestry road outside of Kawerau in the. Bay of Plenty. Even though I call it a gravel road, it's more like an unsealed road, and some sections are rougher than others. You don't need a 4WD, although if you have a lowered car, just be prepared for a slower drive. You will need to buy a permit ($10 per car) from the Kawerau isite - permits are only issued for weekends and public holidays. The isite is also close to New World, which is handy if you want to pick up last minute snacks.

The walk to Tarawera Falls from the carpark takes about 20 mins, and that's at a cruisy pace (with plenty of photo breaks). It's a well formed walking track, and I even saw someone on crutches the last time I was there. I wouldn't say it's pushchair friendly though.

Waimangu Volcanic Valley self-guided walk

Sometimes, I like being a tourist in my own backyard. It turns out, so does the tall fella. Sunday is our day to go exploring together. He once told me that when he was a kid he wanted to grow up and become a geologist, it didn’t happen, so I guess a two-hour walk in a geothermal valley is the next best thing. Oh and the tall fella does have a name. His name’s Aaron, and he’s lovely.

Waimangu Volcanic Valley is 20 mins drive from Rotorua (about 1.5 hours from Whakatāne) or 45 mins from Taupō. It’s a paid tourist attraction with the options of a self-guided walk or hike, as well as a boat cruise on Lake Rotomahana. The walk starts and finishes at the info centre, which also has a gift shop and cafe. We booked our self-guided walk tickets online, and tickets can also be purchased on the day.

This was actually the second time I’ve done the self-guided walk at Waimangu Volcanic Valley. Back in 2021, I was researching easy walks around the Bay of Plenty to do with my parents. We had started doing day walks and some beginner tracks as a family when the COVID-19 restrictions started to ease. Waimangu Volcanic Valley had just reopened and were running specials, so I took Mum and Dad, Kuya Jovial and Kat to check it out. The photos are a combination of my 2021 and 2023 visits.

A winter roadie to Lake Rotopounamu and Waihāhā Hut

The first time I heard about Lake Rotopounamu was before my workmate went on maternity leave (she just came back to work a few months ago after a year off). I’ve driven past it a couple of times on my way to hikes in the Tongariro National Park, and I’m stoked that I tagged it onto my hike to Waihāhā Hut in the Pureora Forest.

Parking for Lake Rotopounamu is on Te Pononga Saddle Road (SH 47), about a 10 minute drive from Tūrangi. Look for the DoC sign across the road.

Lake Rotopounamu is said to be the heart centre of New Zealand, and I get it, listening to the abundant birdsong and walking amongst giants, time slows down. I’ve felt that in forests before, then again I love forests for that reason. What got me were the moments when the lake suddenly came into view. It takes you a few seconds to realise that the world isn’t upside down, but that the skies are so beautifully reflected on the water.

The track is family-friendly - the loop is well marked and steady underfoot. It’s approx. 5km according to my watch. The track goes uphill in the beginning, but evens out after about 15 minutes. Most of the track is under a canopy, with plenty of lake access along the way. A section of the track is lakeside which was a nice break to walk in the sunshine before heading back into the forest. The loop took me around 1.5 hours, with plenty of time to enjoy the birdsong and take lots of photos.

Hiking the Tongariro Northern Circuit

I had packed up and was ready to go by 7.30am, feeling pretty pumped to start my hike. I did a quick dash to wash my dishes in the holiday park’s kitchen. When I returned, stubborn resistance on the door knob almost jarred my wrist. Shit. Shit. Shit. I was locked out! The reception wasn’t due to open for another hour, so I took a nap in my car and waited. The slightly later start did mean having to sacrifice my morning soy mocha though. Bummer!

Most people walk the circuit in a clockwise direction, spending their first night at Mangatepopo Hut, Oturere Hut then Waihohonu Hut. I walked it in the opposite direction for two reasons - hut availability, and that I’m a stronger climber than going downhill on loose, dusty terrain.

There were already a few hikers on their way out from Waihohonu Hut before I even reached the Tama Lakes junction. It took me less than two hours to get there. It was only 10 mins to the Lower Tama Lake (45 mins to Upper Tama Lake), so I decided to find a nice rock and sat down for lunch.

The junction sign said I had another three hours to the hut, but it took me almost an extra hour because of the heat. I’m used to walking under a thick canopy, and the 2pm desert sun did hit me with a surprising intensity. It wasn’t hot enough to feel my skin burning (I made sure I had plenty of sunscreen), but I was sweating in a lot of places that didn’t feel sexy.

I was tempted to jump into the Waihohonu River to cool down, but I was only an hour from the hut so I kept going. The last hour was mostly through undulating tussock and a few dry rocky riverbeds.

The current Waihohonu Hut is the second of its name, with the original hut located just 150m away. It was the first hut built in the Tongariro National Park in 1904. You can still visit the original hut, but you can’t stay there.

© 2015 Five Foot Ronna

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