Mangamate Loop in Te Whirinaki Pua-a-Tāne
At Mangamate Hut on the morning of day three - walk out day.
How to get to the start of the track
The track starts and ends via the Whirinaki Falls loop track at the River Road car park in Minginui. Mangamate Hut can also be accessed via Plateau Road at the Upper Whirinaki Hut - either on the mid-Whirinaki track or Taumutu Stream. I didn’t get to check out the caves on this tramp, but I’ve been told it’s worth the detour. Check out the caves track in the Department of Conservation topo on the link below. There are multiple river crossings between Central Whirinaki and Mangamate Huts, and from Managamate to River Road, you will spend most of the day in and out of the river. Make sure to check the weather forecast during the week to make sure river levels are safe to cross.
There were a few messy windfalls throughout, but nothing that made it feel unsafe to continue.
Depending on the time of day, Te Whirinaki Pua-a-Tāne is either rich in birdsong or so quiet that a band of kererū (wood pigeon) flying overhead actually gave me a fright. There were times that the canopy was so thick that I would only hear them flying from tree to tree, their distinct turquoise feathers acting as the perfect camouflage. I especially enjoyed coming around the corner and watching a flock of pīwakawaka (fantails) scatter in all directions, only to have some of them keep me company along the track, telling me about their day.
I was keeping a close eye on the rain forecast the week of doing the Mangamate Loop - especially since days two and three involved multiple river crossings. Being only 5ft tall (that’s 152cm), the deepest crossings were mid-thigh, and these were few and far between. We’ve also had a dry summer, so the crossings were mostly mid-calf. I’m used to those. I planned a three-day tramp, spending my first night at Central Whirinaki Hut (5hr/16km), then to Mangamate Hut (4.5hr/8.2km), and completing the loop at River Road (4hr/10km). You can walk the loop in either direction, but I personally recommend doing Central Whirinaki on your first day as river crossings on your third day makes for a much more interesting tramp.
I always love looking up to the podocarp canopy.
I met a group of women also heading to Central Whirinaki at Vern’s Camp. I wasn’t really tired, but I thought it would be good to have a chat and a quick snack in the sunshine. Most were from the Tauranga area, while one had driven from Whangarei that morning. “How many of you?” One of them called out, and I replied, “Just me.” Being a Friday, there was less chance of a full hut, but you never know. At the hut, they had the most amazing spread of cheeses (three kinds!), salami, crackers, olives and chocolate. I later learned they were having Thai green curry for dinner. These ladies could have fed an army!
Three of the ladies passed me on the way to the hut, and we caught up a couple of times before I eventually lost sight of them. Maybe it was because I didn’t stop as much for photos, but my watch told me that it had only taken me 4.5hr, an hour less than last time. “Hey, you made it!” A male voice called out to me. I guess he thought I was with the group of ladies too. He was on the deck, lying on a mattress. We ended up having a good chat afterwards - his name was Trent, a solo tramper living in Wellington. He was born in Murupara and the Central Whirinaki was his first tramp as a six year old.
Central Whirinaki Hut was only half full that night.
Dinner for me was the fried rice I made the night before. It was ok, but a bit soggy. I had forgotten to bring cooking oil and had to heat it up with water instead. We were all sitting around the hut table when a group of four from the Whanganui Tramping Club walked in. They were a lovely bunch and I really enjoyed chatting with them. I would say their average age was around the 60s. The group was on their first night of a seven day tramp doing the Whirinaki Circuit - they were heading to the Upper Whirinaki the next day.
After breakfast, the tramping club left first. Trent and I were both doing the Mangamate Loop, while the ladies were staying another night. Before he set off, Trent asked me to help him recreate two photos from that tramp as a six year old. The first was with the family dog in front of the door, and the other was a hilarious photo of him with his arms around the pole. He couldn’t remember what made him pose like that - he thought maybe because he didn’t want to walk anymore. We caught up again less than an hour from the hut.
Everyone was heading to the caves on day two, which is only a slight detour from the Mangamate track. I had all intentions of joining them, but part way there, I realised that I forgotten to look at the map in the hut for the actual location (there’s no reception in the Whirinaki), so I decided that I would have to check it out next time. To get there, head towards Plateau Road and after the swing bridge, follow the track on the left. I’ve been told that there’s a signpost marker so you shouldn’t miss it. The track from Central Whirinaki to the Mangamate/Upper Whirinaki junction is a relatively flat benched track, which made a nice start to the morning. After the wooden bridge was a different story though - I spent a few hours between my boots sinking in mud and rinsing it off on river crossings.
It was only 8.2km to Mangamate Hut (approx. 4hr tramping), so I just took my time. As you head towards the upper part of the Whirinaki, the broadleaf podocarpus make way to Beech trees. Quite magical really. Nothing like morning light in the forest. It is good to have some backcountry navigating experience when doing this track, as apart from the multiple river crossings, some of the orange markers were a bit hidden. There were several times I had to bypass large windfalls on a river crossing. In saying that, as long as you can spot the markers, the track itself is easy enough to follow.
“Trent, can I ask you a personal question?” I called out. “Sure, go for it.” I wanted to continue our conversation from the day before. I asked him about his mission to give back, “I’m curious, why this year, why now?” I guess I’ve never really been one for small talk, aye. He had had a successful career, and recently had been reading books on how to redistribute wealth in our communities. In a nutshell, it can either be through government level or as an individual. For him, he would focus on making a difference in the lives of a few, in the hopes that it would have a flow on effect in their communities too. He didn’t exactly know what that would look like yet.
I told him how at Casa de Guías in Huaraz, there were scholarships for mountain guide students offered by a group of Swiss mountaineers. The students were from small villages with the intention that once they are fully qualified, would set up an agency in their hometowns. Not only does it continue to elevate the standard of mountain guides, furthermore, it would have economic benefits for those villages.
Turkey tail fungi on a log that had fallen onto the river.
The rain started before sunset, making the hut darken much quicker. We didn’t mind - Trent wanted an early night as he was leaving early the next day, and I was already yawning during dinner. I was tossing and turning most of the night, with a panicked dash to the toilet around 2am. Barely made it past the hut, and definitely nowhere near the outdoor toilet. Luckily, I just caught a break in the rain before the next downpour began.
Trent was gone by 8am, so I had a very quiet morning at the hut. After breakfast, photos and a quick sweep of the hut, I followed the track down to the river. It was a gentle slope for the first 30 minutes until you heard the river, then much like any track near a river, it turned into a steep, slippery, rooty path that becomes an anxious scramble until you get to the bottom. Unless you’re a goat of course, then it’s sweet as.
I’m glad that I walked out from Mangamate Hut on day three, because I really enjoyed the river crossings. Not to mention that the water kept me cool in the humidity. I even surprised myself how much more confident I’ve become navigating in the backcountry. I definitely got lucky with that weather window though, because on the Monday after, we had a four-day deluge of rain. The water levels would have been too high for this shorty! If you’re looking for a good introduction to backcountry navigating and river crossings, make sure to check out the Mangamate loop on your next adventure.
Breakfast at Mangamate Hut on walk out day.
fivefootronna is Ronna Grace Funtelar - a thirtyish adventurer, graphic designer and writer. A woman with a curious mind who lives for hiking mountains, outdoor adventures and eating pizza. She has a unique brand of optimism that is a combination of her great enthusiasm for life and cups of coffee during the day.