Hiking to the Central Whirinaki Hut
The mist was rising up in the hills as the rain fell.
Highlights include seeing the most chilled out Whio (Blue Duck) on a rock, listening to beautiful Tūīs and hearing a Kiwi bird’s mating call while sitting on the long-drop.
If it takes almost two hours to drive to get to the start of the track, can you really say it’s in your backyard? That’s how long it usually takes me to get through the long, windy road to Minginui, the closest village to Whirinaki te Pua-a-Tane. It’s a stunning podocarp rainforest that’s on the edges of the Whakatāne District - and what a taonga / treasure it is!
I’ve been to the Whirinaki before, twice actually, to do the waterfall loop. Hiking to the Central Whirinaki hut was the first time I had ventured this deep into the forest. The 15.6km hike to the hut is a steady climb with short bursts of uphill. The track is well marked and maintained, with one rogue sign that made me think I was close to the hut when in fact I had another hour to go! It took me 5.5 hours with a 30 minute break for lunch at Vern’s Camp. By the way, if I wasn’t hiking solo and the forecast wasn’t in the single digits, I would have definitely stayed there. What a cool little spot!
Nothing like walking into a fairy forest…
River Road Car park to Vern’s Camp (8km / 2.5 hours)
The River Road car park already had several cars when I arrived at 11am to start my hike. Not far from the car park, I came across a group of teenagers. Followed by a few more several minutes later, then a couple of adults. “I’m assuming they’re with you?” I greeted the two men with a smile. “They sure are.” They were the last people I saw until I was well past Vern’s Camp. I didn’t really mind, I was there to switch off, as I often do when I’m hiking on my own.
The track follows the first section of the Whirinaki Falls loop track. It took me 1.5 hours to get to the signpost that points towards Vern’s Camp. This sign is a bit misleading as it says Vern’s Camp is an hour away, and the hut is 2.5 hours. Vern’s Camp was correct, but it takes another 2.5 hours from the camp to the hut. Something to keep in mind if you’re planning to stop for lunch.
There was no one around when I stopped for lunch at Vern’s Camp, apart from the nosy Pīwakawaka / Fantail that is. I saw plenty of them, always curious much like the Robin. It was also nice to get a bit of sun - walking in the rainforest, the tree canopy blocks a lot of sunlight. That’s something to keep in mind if you’re hiking late in the day - it gets darker faster in the forest, even before sunset.
Vern’s Camp, the halfway point to the Central Whirinaki Hut.
Vern’s Camp to Central Whirinaki Hut (7.6km / 2.5 hours)
I was surprised how exposed the last 5km was, especially as it ran beside the fast flowing Whirinaki River. Watch your footing The track steadily climbed, but with plenty of flat sections - which made carrying my 10kg pack much easier. There was plenty of river access, which meant I could top up my bottle along the way. Just remember to boil or use water tabs before drinking.
The track narrows quite a bit in this section - make sure to watch your footing when soaking in the views because you might just end up taking a big soak in the river! There are some pretty steep drops off and a few active slip zones had some fairly big trunks cleared away.
I must have been deep in my own thoughts because I didn’t hear the two women who were chatting behind me. I chuckled as I let them pass. Earlier I got another fright from a Chilean guy who looked on curiously as I was trying to take macro shots of mushrooms. He was also heading to the hut and had asked me how far I thought we might be from the hut. “Maybe 30 minutes max.” It turned out we were still an hour away.
The track had long sections that ran alongside the Whirinaki River.
A random tunnel along the track.
Not far from the hut, you come across this random tunnel. It provides a bit of comic relief on a wet hike, because let’s be honest, who doesn’t like a random tunnel in a beautiful forest? As the rain got stronger and my legs were a few kilometres from no longer being as spritely, I didn’t stop too long (I actually took this photo the next day). I had reached that point in a hike where I just wanted to get to the end, so it was a relief when I came across another hiker collecting firewood. She was about ten minutes from the camp and told me I didn’t have far to go.
I was so happy when the forest opened up to a grass clearing. There were a few hikers outside the hut, and as tired as I was, I knew I had to check if I had a bunk for the night. I wasn’t too worried because I brought a tent, but there was more rain forecasted for the next day and a wet tent in my pack didn’t sound all that appealing.
The hut sleeps 26 - I got lucky as there were only a handful left. I claimed a bunk before I changed out of my wet clothes. Wet from sweat or rain, probably both. Once I sorted out where I would be sleeping, my stomach suddenly reminded me how hungry I was. I still had some leftover Brie and chorizo, but decided to save those for lunch the next day. Instead I had my dehydrated roast chicken and mashed potato, which was ok, but no substitute for actual roast chicken.
It took me closer to six hours to walk out the next day - which I put to not much sleep and still getting used to hiking with a heavier pack. I really enjoyed this hike - it’s a decent hike but not too strenuous. Some highlights include seeing the most chilled out Whio (Blue Duck) on a rock, listening to beautiful Tūīs and hearing a Kiwi bird’s mating call while sitting on the long-drop.
It was drizzling at the Central Whirinaki Hut when I left on Sunday.
fivefootronna is Ronna Grace Funtelar - a thirtyish adventurer, graphic designer and writer. A woman with a curious mind who lives for hiking mountains, outdoor adventures and eating pizza. She has a unique brand of optimism that is a combination of her great enthusiasm for life and cups of coffee during the day.