Peru: The breathtaking hike that is Laguna Llaca

Cooking fried rice at 4.30am seemed like a good idea before my head hit the pillow the night before, but I soon realised that the smell of garlic wasn’t as appetizing before sunrise. Hiking in the rainy season means early starts, and we were up before many partygoers made it home from the night before. In fact, our small group of four watched in stitches of laughter as a group of young men went from potentially having a fight, to hugging each other and then chanting how much they loved each other. Alcohol does funny things to people.

Peru: Laguna Shallap - one of Ancash's hidden treasures

The Ancash Region is renowned for its stunning lakes, yet the 17km return journey to Laguna Shallap gifts you endless opportunities for amazing landscape photography, even before you reach the lake. Laguna Shallap starts in Pitek, at the same place as its more famous neighbour, Laguna Churup. At 4,250m above sea level, it’s been one of the easier hikes I’ve experienced in Peru so far. If you’re a hobby hiker like me, this is a great day hike, though I highly recommend hiking it with others due to the distance and isolation.

Paulo Sierrah: Artist, illustrator and beyond

I came across Paulo Sierrah’s art through an acquaintance at Selina, and it was great to follow his progress through his Instagram account. Selina officially opened in Huaraz just a few weeks ago, and I was lucky enough to get a tour of the hotel and see the finished art in person. Like my apartment, Selina is in the Pumacayan neighbourhood - the historic, quieter part of Huaraz.

This was the first time Paulo worked with the Selina Hotel franchise. There are already three Selina hotels in Peru, one in Cusco and two in Lima. The interior design and culture caters to the digital nomad, the professional traveller or anyone ready to leave the backpacking travel lifestyle behind.

Peru: Hiking to the stunning Laguna Ahuac

Burning muscles, cramps and even freaking diarrhoea – it may have been a beautiful Sunday, but this was no walk in the park. I’ve hiked almost 20km in a day, and even though it’s 6km one way, it’s the elevation that gets you. Luckily, I had experienced hikers with me who calmed me down when I started to doubt myself, especially as the air grew thinner. Altitude sickness comes in many stages and symptoms – the mild version makes you breathless, and at my worst so far (which isn’t that bad to be honest), I’ve had jelly legs and felt dizzy enough that I had to sit down.

Puma de los Andes (José Luis Sotelo Montoro): A man who lives and breathes his art

I first met José Luis Sotelo Montoro (Puma de los Andes) at his home a couple of days before my interview. That evening, the night sky was thick with rain clouds, but it held off long enough for us to find his home. For my friend, Marbel, this was the third time she had seen José’s incredible Christmas exhibition (which is actually displayed in his living room) - she even joked that maybe she should get a cut for bringing so many people to see it.

We met again on Sunday, the last night of the display. As I spoke limited Spanish, and he just a little English, Marbel had to be our interpreter. There were plenty of laughs between the serious questions - it was like three friends catching up over drinks.

Peru: Walking back in time in Waullac, Huaraz

The rainy season has made me claustrophobic. I’ve missed being out hiking but I’ve learned to listen to advice from those who know this area well, because when it rains in the mountains, it’s not just any rain. It’s glacial rain and it can chill you to the bone.

Liliana and I decided to check out Waullac, an archeological site in the barrio de Nicrucampa and believed to have been in use from 200 AC - 600 DC. It’s said to be linked to other sites I’ve already been to - Pumacayan (which is where I live) and Willkawain. The adobe house structures are typical of the Wari culture, though it looks more like storage houses than the ceremonial buildings in Willkawain.