Grey skies greeted us at Te Wairoa carpark. I knew we were in for a wet afternoon, but I was hopeful we would be closer to Hot Water Beach by then, and even planned a quick soak before catching the water taxi at 3pm. I’ve walked the Tarawera Trail twice before (from both directions) and was pretty confident with my five hour walking estimate. Unfortunately, there have been a couple of major storms since I last hiked the Tarawera Trail, and the large windfalls and overgrown sections did slow us down. I was still pretty close - it took us 5.5 hours and made it to Hot Water Beach with just three minutes to spare!

Even though it’s called the ‘Tarawera Trail’, I reckon it’s still a well marked track and beginners shouldn’t have too much trouble. When you leave the carpark, the trail will begin to narrow as it climbs up towards Te Wairoa viewpoint. There was a lot of grass and ferns growing over the track, which slowed me down a lot. Being just five feet fall, we had a good laugh as I bush bashed my way through, and the tall fella cruised through it. Is it even hiking in the backcountry without a bit of bush bashing?

Chasing waterfalls: Kaiate (Te Rerekawau) Falls and Ōmanawa Falls

Before 2023, the track down to Ōmanawa Falls had been closed to the public for many years. If you Googled ‘Ōmanawa Falls’, you would have found countless articles of people using sketchy trails, ropes and historic ladders just to get down to the waterfall. Millions of dollars have been spent on abandoned plans trying to make the old track safer and reopened. The new walking track officially reopened to the public in December 2023, with three viewing platforms and a gazillion stairs (just kidding, it’s only around 1,400 return). There’s no public access to the bottom of the waterfall and swimming isn’t allowed - it’s considered tapu/sacred by mana whenua, Ngāti Hangarau.

The walking track is 2km return, and 1.5 hours gave us plenty of time to enjoy the views and take photos. From the main car park, we walked along a gravel road to the Titoki Junction where we decided to head up the stairs instead of going to the first lookout (Te Tae Ōmanawa). We saved that one for last.

A stroll along the Lake Ōkāreka Walkway

Our walk started from the boat ramp carpark because it has flushing toilets - there are no toilets at the reserve carpark. From the toilets, we walked roadside for 15 mins until we reached the lakeside reserve. The track is wheelchair accessible until Silver Beach, as beyond here the track goes up stairs and along a short bush track to the outlet, where the track ends.

About five minutes from the carpark, the track opens up to the lakeside wetlands. There’s a purpose-built boardwalk so you can do enjoy the birdlife without damaging the wetland and plant life. We checked out the bird hide on the way back, but with the birds being so chilled anyway, it was easier to do our bird watching (and photography) from the boardwalk instead. We spot some small fish swimming in the wetland streams, but being so dry, the streams were mostly a trickle.

Waimangu Volcanic Valley self-guided walk

Sometimes, I like being a tourist in my own backyard. It turns out, so does the tall fella. Sunday is our day to go exploring together. He once told me that when he was a kid he wanted to grow up and become a geologist, it didn’t happen, so I guess a two-hour walk in a geothermal valley is the next best thing. Oh and the tall fella does have a name. His name’s Aaron, and he’s lovely.

Waimangu Volcanic Valley is 20 mins drive from Rotorua (about 1.5 hours from Whakatāne) or 45 mins from Taupō. It’s a paid tourist attraction with the options of a self-guided walk or hike, as well as a boat cruise on Lake Rotomahana. The walk starts and finishes at the info centre, which also has a gift shop and cafe. We booked our self-guided walk tickets online, and tickets can also be purchased on the day.

This was actually the second time I’ve done the self-guided walk at Waimangu Volcanic Valley. Back in 2021, I was researching easy walks around the Bay of Plenty to do with my parents. We had started doing day walks and some beginner tracks as a family when the COVID-19 restrictions started to ease. Waimangu Volcanic Valley had just reopened and were running specials, so I took Mum and Dad, Kuya Jovial and Kat to check it out. The photos are a combination of my 2021 and 2023 visits.

Explore the breathtaking Mount Tarawera with Kaitiaki Adventures

“We have a saying on this tour - it’s easier to stop than to mop!” Everyone in the van burst out laughing. The van had reached the start of the 4WD track on our guided tour to Mount Tarawera and Dan, our guide, was letting us know that it would be a bumpy 30 minutes ahead of us. He wasn’t joking, but luckily no one gave him a reason to bring out his mop on our tour.

I had wanted to do the guided walking tour on Mount Tarawera with Kaitiaki Adventures for a while now. After months of procrastination, I found myself booking on the Friday morning (I booked through bookme.co.nz) and just like that, I was climbing a volcano the following afternoon. There were seven of us on the tour with a couple of guides, Dan K (our main guide and driver) and Jordie aka Wade - he was so new they didn’t have time to get him a shirt with his name yet.

The van picked up three of us from the car park on Hemo Road and made our way to Ash Pit campground to pick up the last couple. It turns out they lived just down the road and after four years of waking up to the mighty maunga/mountain, they finally decided to climb it. Even though I spent most of the drive talking to them, I actually forgot to ask them their names! They were originally from Auckland and were originally looking to retire in Taupō, but luck would have it that their property popped up on the market and they haven’t looked back since.

Walking the Tarawera Trail and camping at Hot Water Beach

Usually, I like to go somewhere remote on long weekends, you know, to get away from the crowds. This time I decided to stay closer to home and walk the Tarawera Trail instead, adding a night’s camping at Te Rata Bay (Hot Water Beach). I had walked the trail before, the first time back in 2019. It was a humid and scorcher of a summer’s day - pretty much like this one.

A couple of days before, I made a last minute decision to join the Pinoy Adventurers NZ group on the trail. The last tramp I did with them was the Tongariro Alpine Crossing last winter. Unfortunately, 6:30am meeting time at Te Wairoa car park was too early for me (as I was driving from Whakatāne that morning), so I let them know I would be starting later and hoped to catch up with them along the track. That was a good decision in the end since I was the only one walking with a pack. It took me 5.5 hours to walk the 13.5km trail, and they got there an hour before me.

© 2015 Five Foot Ronna

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